Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second-largest city, has had many names throughout its long and storied past. Once known as Philippopolis, in honor of Philip II of Macedon, and later Trimontium, reflecting its position on three hills, Plovdiv today carries a name that echoes centuries of cultural transformation but that can be traced back to Slavs domination.

While exploring Plovdiv, I couldn’t help but draw comparisons to my own city, Naples, and other Italian cities like Taormina and Rome, which, much like Plovdiv, still proudly preserve their enduring Roman heritage.

To start with, Plovdiv’s nickname, the “City of the Seven Hills,” draws an immediate comparison to Rome, also built on seven hills. In both cities, their hills offer breathtaking views over their urban landscapes and surrounding regions. In Plovdiv, the Nebet Tepe hill, home to ancient ruins, provides a panoramic glimpse of the city and its layered history, much like the Palatine Hill in Rome, which is considered the first nucleus of the Roman empire.

In all these cities, history is not confined to museums; it is woven into their urban landscapes. Every street, every corner, and every piece of its architecture tells a story, inviting visitors to become part of its narrative.

In the heart of the city, you will stumble upon remnants of Roman civilization that remind us of Plovdiv’s significance as a cultural and political center during the Roman Empire. the Roman Stadium, the Roman Forum, and the Roman Theatre.

The first connection that comes into my mind considering this Roman legacy is Taormina. Nestled in the hills of Sicily, Taormina boasts its own Roman marvel, the Ancient Theatre of Taormina, a stunning amphitheater overlooking the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna.

Like Plovdiv, where the ancient stadium is seamlessly integrated into the modern cityscape, Taormina’s Roman theater is still used today for cultural performances, bringing history to life.

What made the history of the Roman theatre in Plovdiv truly remarkable is its unexpected preservation. After the Gothic invasions, the theatre was completely buried under layers of earth and rubble, ironically protecting it from the ravages of time and later human intervention. This act of unintentional preservation ensured that the theatre remained hidden, almost perfectly intact, for centuries.

Its discovery in the 20th century happened by sheer accident when a local man stumbled upon its ruins while digging in his garden. This event has given rise to a popular saying in Plovdiv: “You never end digging your garden,” a playful nod to the city’s rich archaeological heritage and the possibility that more ancient treasures may yet lie undiscovered beneath its surface.

Beyond its ancient ruins, Plovdiv brings history to life through its statues, which bridge the gap between past and present. These sculptures are more than historical markers; they feel like silent participants in everyday life.

One such figure is Milyo, a local eccentric and storyteller, casually seated and appearing to share a story with passersby. A legend says that if you rub Milyo’s knees, you will be granted luck in love; a tradition that draws both locals and tourists, who eagerly take part in the ritual.

A comparison can easily be drawn between Milyo and Pulcinella, the iconic figure of Naples. Pulcinella, a mischievous character from the traditional Commedia dell’Arte, represents the Neapolitan spirit with his wit, humor, and resilience. Statues of Pulcinella in Naples, such as the one in the historic center, invite interaction from passersby, who often touch his nose for good luck.

Both Milyo and Pulcinella symbolize the soul of their respective cities, embodying their unique blend of humor, charm, and connection to the people.

Another statue, located in the courtyard of the Academy of Music, Dance, and Fine Arts, is of Alexander Nikolov, widely known as Sasho Sladura. He was a jazz musician with a free-spirited personality who became a victim of the Communist regime in Bulgaria when he was sent to the Belene labor camp.

While observing this statue, I was captivated by the music drifting from the nearby Academy. The melodies seemed to bring the ancient venue to life, and they immediately reminded me of the music I often hear in my own city, Naples, while walking near the notorious Conservatorio di San Pietro a Majella.

The historical centers of Plovdiv and Naples share striking similarities in their maze-like street layouts and vibrant, artisanal cultures. In Plovdiv, the name of the neighborhood Kapana comes from its winding alleys, which felt like a “trap” to those who wandered through its intricate paths. Similarly, Naples’ historic center is a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets, particularly in areas like San Gregorio Armeno, where I lived for a year. This famous street, once a Roman route, became renowned in the 18th century for its tradition of crafting handmade nativity figurines, which have since evolved to include figurines of politicians, actors, and other renowned figures. Both cities are also known for their thriving art scenes, especially street art.

However, the parallels between Plovdiv and Italian cities extend even further, as in the same year, 2019, both a Bulgarian and an Italian city (Matera) were awarded the prestigious title of European Capital of Culture. These two cities both faced the challenge of revitalizing historic spaces and making them relevant to contemporary audiences, thus managing to create a balance between preservation and innovation.

In conclusion, Plovdiv, much like Italian cities such as Taormina and Naples, is a place where ancient ruins and vibrant traditions coexist harmoniously. The Roman Stadium in Plovdiv and the Ancient Theatre in Taormina stand as enduring symbols of the Roman Empire’s influence, while Milyo in Plovdiv and Pulcinella in Naples keep the human stories behind these places alive. Just as Kapana’s maze-like streets in Plovdiv, with its art galleries and craft shops, echo the narrow alleys of Naples’ historic center, both cities weave a tapestry of history and creativity. Moreover, the rich cultural heritage of both cities continues to resonate through their thriving musical communities.

Ylenia Majo