The Bachkovo monastery is the second largest monastery in Bulgaria and the second most visited in the country. It’s situated on a ledge, on the right of the Valley of Chepelarska River, close to the village of Bachkovo, 10 km from Asenovgrad and 30 km from Plovdiv. Important tourist destination, especially during the weekends and the Orthodox holidays, the monastery estate, almost 8000 sq.m, counts 2 courtyards, 4 churches and 18 chapels, 10 in the city of Asenovgrad and 8 around it. In the close vicinity, in the hearth of the Rhodope Mountains, there is “The Red Wall” national biosphere reserve.

THE HISTORY BEHIND THE WALLS

Established by the great Domestic of the West Grigorii Bakuriani, under the reign of the Byzantine Emperor Alexis I Komnin, the Bachkovo monastery has existed for more than nine centuries and today is among the most remarkable monuments of the culture and art of Bulgarian past. Bakuriani was a friend of the emperor and the ruler of the geographical region, in which the monastery was built. His brother, Abasii, also a co-founder, provided significant financial support but unfortunately did not survive until the construction was finished.

“Since it is profitable and the duty of every faithful orthodox Christian who has been baptized…always to expect the end to take thought for the day of his death, to expect the resurrection of everyone and himself from the dead, and to meditate on that fearful and awful examination in the just judgment of Christ…according to that holy voice in the gospel concerning that [threat], and hence each one “to give” to God “the ransom”…for all these reasons, I the often-mentioned sebastos Gregory, and megas domestikos, the very sinful and unworthy servant of Christ…I desired this from the beginning…and until now I longed to build a very beautiful church and round it a dwelling for monks and in it a burial place for the repose of my sinful bones…

So now since God has deemed me worthy to accomplish the longing of my heart, the holy churches have been completed with the fortified monastery round them and the cells…For I dare to say that it was not completed with any other money belonging to someone else or as a result of any wrongdoing or even with forced labor, and exceedingly abusive impositions on my dependent peasants,… but from my own rights and personal labors and zealous efforts.”

With those word, written in the laws of the monastery, he clearly explains the reasons behind the construction of the complex.

Starting from 1083, the year of its foundation, until now the monastery has faced many challenges and very hard times becoming the proof of the possibility of surviving the continuous changes in history. At the beginning in the monastery lived 50 monks with one abbot in charge. This was a significant number as only two other institutions in Byzantium had more. They were either Georgian or Armenian. According to the 24th Chapter of the monastery By-laws, no disciples of Greek origin were to be allowed into it, those were meant to be primarily Georgian.

Thanks to its founder during the period of Byzantine domination, the monastery obtained innumerable advantages, among which the independence from the other Orthodox institutions and the exemption from the payment of taxes. This allowed the growth of the complex that acquired various properties in the surrounding area, received materials and donations and built three inn-cloister to host the pilgrims arriving from the country. Seventy imperial decrees were written to outline the monastery status and property ownership.

A scholarly society was established that attracted some of the most prominent minds of the time. An important figure of this period is the King Ivan Alexander that in the first half of the XIV century made some very significant donations and was later acknowledged as a co-founder. His portrait decorates the monastery ossuary.

In 1393 the Ottoman Turks conquered the Balkans and the life in the monastery became much more difficult. Taxes were introduced and some of the old privileges got lost. During XVI century, though, sultan Suleiman I provided some tax relief and this enabled the establishment to gather some funds and renovation was possible.

In the beginning of the XVII century, Bachkovo monastery was restored to life and the properties around the holy place were well renovated. The temple “Assumption of the Holy Virgin”, the refectory, and the cloister in Asenovgrad were completely rebuilt. In this period the monastery became part of the Patriarchate of Constantinople completely losing its independence. This led to a noticeable increase in the Greek presence in the monastery even among the abbots causing fighting for Greek or Bulgarian superiority even in neighboring cities.

With the establishment of the Bulgarian Exarchate, in the 1894, the monastery permanently passes under the jurisdiction of the New Bulgarian Church.

At the moment the monastery is part of the Bulgarian Patriarchate and is a place where are the remains of two abbots of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church – exarch Stefan and patriarch Kiril, important figures for helping and hosting Jews by saving them from the Nazi concentration camps during the Second World War

A CLOSE-UP ON THE ESTATE

The main church

The temple of “Assumption of the Holy Virgin” was built in 1604 on top of the archaeological remains of the old church. It had been finished in 1643 with the funds of Georgi and his son Constantine, whose portraits in rich oriental clothes, decorate the wall on the right side of the inner central door. The main fresco, which style is characteristic of the Bulgarian Enlightenment, dates back to the 1850 and is by the painter Mosko Velev.

St. Archangels Church

The church ‘St. Archangels Michael and Gabriel’ is the oldest church in the inner part of the monastery estate. It has existed from the foundation of the monastery and It has two floors. The temple itself, dedicated to Archangel Michael and Archangel Gabriel, is on the second floor. The expenses were all covered by citizens of the villages around Assenovgrad. On the inside walls, there is a depiction of Aleksei I Komnin, the emperor, who, according to some sources was the first founder of the temple.

Temple of St. Nicolas

This is the third church in the monastery and it had been built in 1936 in the Southern Monastery Yard. The whole temple has been decorated by the famous painter Zahari Zograf. The frescoes include scenes from the Last Judgement, heaven, hell and traditional depictions of saints and sinners. Among those, Zahari had included portraits of various wealthy citizens and coquettes from Plovdiv, who were put in hell for their unpatriotic behavior and dissipated life.

Monastery Ossuary

One of a kind, the ossuary is situated 300 meters east from the monastery and it is the oldest preserved building in the area. It had been built in 1083 by Grigorii Bakuriani and today is still in good condition. The roof and the ceiling were restored in 2001. The ossuary has two floors. On the first one, there are 14 graves, containing the bones of former monks. The second one serves as funeral church. Right next to the ossuary is the monastery graveyard. After 8 years, the graves were opened up and the bones were moved. The ossuary is the only one with preserved frescoes in the orthodox world. Some date to the XIth  century, others to the XIVth century.

The Old Refectory

One of the most interesting sites in the monastery includes the refectory and kitchen connected to it. The refectory is separated from the kitchen with the help of a small storage chamber – “siugesnitsa”. The dining table is located next to the west wall, made of large marble plates. On top of the table, there is an inscription indicating that it had been built in 1601 by the craftsman Nikola during the time of abbot Matei, with funds of the former metropolitan of Plovdiv, Danail. The whole room has been decorated with religious frescoes. 90% of them are preserved, executed by an unknown author in the first half of the XVII century.

The Refectory has been thoroughly restored in 1965-1971 from a team of Bulgarian and Czech restorers. It is the only one of its kind in Bulgaria and therefore attracts visitors from all over the world.

 

THE MIRACLE WORKING ICON OF THE HOLY VIRGIN

Central to the monastery’s and pilgrims’ spiritual life is the Miracle Working Icon of the Holy Virgin. It is believed that it has miraculous power. It attracts many visitors from all over the country who come to pray, share their worries; ask for protection and well-being in life.

The story says that during the early times of the Ottoman rule, the icon was hidden in the territory of Kluviata, where it was found again in the beginning of the XVIIth century and brought back to the monastery. On two occasions the icon disappeared by itself only to be found in the same spot by the perplexed monks. Following a dream of one of them, it was finally brought back permanently and placed in a special spot, created for it in the cathedral church of the monastery, on the right from the central door, in a separate iconostasis and onto a small platform. In this way, it could be accessed by everybody in need.

The portrayal of the Holy Virgin is one of ‘tenderness’ (a term, used when baby Christ is gently pressed upon the face of Mary). It does have silver and gold repousse cover. It is considered that the icon dates back to the XIth century. On the side of Our Lady, one can see an inscription: ‘Vlaherniotisa’. Most probably, it means that the icon could be a copy of the famous Vlahern Holy Virgin, patroness of Constantinople and protector from unexpected military attacks. The spaces on the sides of the Holy Mother are covered in a gold-plated repousse, donated to it in 1311 by two monastery monks, the brothers Athanasii and Okropir.

The inscription on is as follows:

“This icon of  the Holy Queen, our Holy Mother in Petricion, was repoussed by two blood brothers from Tao, the sons of Ignatii, Atanasii and Okropir, for 125 perperons, together with the silver icon lamp in front of the icon, under the reign of the pious kings Andronik, Michael and Andronik Paleolozi in Byzantium, and under Constantine and Dimitrii Bagratidi in Georgia, in the summer of holy Greek 6819 and Georgian 6915. Holy Virgin, please, accept this small gift from them and forgive and help them and also their parents,  in the day of Last Judgement in front of your Son, our God. Amen, amen.

Year 6819, indict 9.

Jesus Christ, have mercy on their souls, dear human loving God, amen.”

In connection with the discovery of the icon and its return to the monastery, there is an organized procession on the second day of Easter that started in the beginning of the XVIIth century.

Cover Photo – Balcon Del Mundo
Fresco Photo – © Ad Meskens / Wikimedia Commons